Heli-touring on Kauai

© Steven Hodges/Sunshine Helicopters

Owing to volcanic topography, some of the most beautiful places in Hawaii are inaccessible by ground. Helicopters solve that problem, and an exciting part of any trip to the islands is an aerial trip that affords truly remarkable views.

On previous visits, we have flown in helicopters to remote parts of the stunning Waipio Valley on the north coast of the Big Island and over the dramatic terrain of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. This time, we took to the air to enjoy spectacular vistas of Kauai’s Na Pali Coast and Waimea Canyon.

Most of the operators on Kauai fly out of Lihue Airport, but that was inconvenient, as we were on the north coast in Princeville at the St. Regis — construction on the road to Lihue meant a round-trip drive that would eat up a good part of the day. Fortunately, a first-rate outfit called Sunshine Helicopters operates out of the small Princeville airport, so with the strong endorsement of the St. Regis concierge, we booked.

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Thursday Escape: Rosewood Mayakoba, Mexico

Copyright Rosewood Mayakoba

Accommodations, the spa, restaurants, beaches and the nearby golf course at Rosewood Mayakoba are all accessible via boats that navigate the property’s canals and lagoons.

From the Harper Collection:

“Striking resort in extraordinary 1,600-acre jungle and beach development featuring a remarkable maze of canals, lagoons and pools, a half-hour south of Cancún. Electric-powered launches or golf carts ferry guests to the 128 striking modernist suites of golden limestone, most with private plunge pools, outdoor garden showers and expansive terraces or rooftop sundecks; however, just 16 overlook the white-sand beach (where the swimming is restricted because of a rocky seabed). Four restaurants include Casa del Lago for refined Mexican and European cuisine. Principal amenities are a lavish island spa beside a natural spring-fed pool, and a Greg Norman-designed golf course; also snorkeling, diving, deep-sea and sportfishing, horseback riding and excursions to Mayan ruins.”

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The Strand Hotel, Rangoon, Burma

Any lover of grand old colonial hotels should contrive to spend a few nights at The Strand in Rangoon, Burma. Built in 1901, it was long regarded as one of the finest addresses east of the Suez. A stately white neoclassical structure set on a quayside overlooking the Rangoon River, The Strand was the crown jewel of the Sarkies Brothers, four remarkable Armenians who presided over a minor hotel empire that included the Eastern & Oriental in Penang (established in 1885) and Raffles in Singapore (1887).

The hotel shares a sadly familiar story with several other Southeast Asian grandes dames: a roaring early-century heyday (Maugham, Kipling, Coward), occupation by Japanese troops during World War II, then decades of neglect. By the mid-1980s, The Strand’s rats were almost as legendary as The Peabody’s ducks.

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Notable September Events

A Thai Long Boat

September 6-7: Florence glows with hundreds of beautiful paper lanterns during the Festa della Rificolona. Various organic producers of Italy host a huge food fair both days of the festival, which culminates the evening of the 7th with a lantern procession from the Piazza Santa Croce to the Piazza Santissima Annunziata. The street party goes on well into the evening.

September 12: New York’s Times Square becomes a giant musical stage between 43rd and 47th streets for Broadway on Broadway, a giant outdoor concert featuring performers from most of the current Broadway shows. Be sure to arrive early, because this free event draws tens of thousands of spectators.

September 12: Enjoy a progressive wine and appetizer party in Napa Valley’s St. Helena starting at 3 p.m. Limited to 20 people, this Tables in the Vineyards event begins in the unique hilltop home of Joan Crowley and moves on to the Steffens estate, 2,000 feet above the valley floor. Finish the day in the home of Chris and Betsy Peacock, set in a picturesque Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard. $110 per person.

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The Canary Hotel, Santa Barbara

Copyright Canary Hotel

It is always a pleasure to discover a hotel that you like much more than you’d anticipated. Our expectations for the Canary in Santa Barbara were modest. We had heard a couple of complimentary reports and, as it is owned by ETC Hotels, whose small stable includes Shutters on the Beach in Santa Monica, a level of competence seemed assured. But of course, Santa Barbara also offers one of the best Four Seasons resorts in the United States, on which owner Ty Warner has recently lavished more than $240 million. Then there is the incomparable San Ysidro Ranch in the leafy foothills of nearby Montecito. Finally, its admirers regard the Simpson House Inn, located in the city itself, as the finest bed-and-breakfast in the country. So what could the Canary possibly offer to lure us away from these established favorites?

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New Members of the Harper Alliance

Copyright Mateya Safari Lodge

Ever more Harper-recommended hotels are joining the Alliance, giving our members an increasing array of amenities. Some of the newest Alliance hotels providing benefits to Harper members include the following:

Mateya Safari Lodge (Madikwe, South Africa – pictured above) – An exclusive, strikingly designed enclave offering majestic views from five luxurious, air-conditioned thatched suites complete with sundecks, infinity pools and fireplaces. Andrew Harper members receive preferred rates, early check-in when available, late checkout when available, a back and neck massage for two once per stay and a bottle of premium South African sparkling wine.

Hotel Bergs (Riga, Latvia) – A stylish 39-room hotel occupying a three-story art nouveau brick building in one of Riga’s most desirable city-center neighborhoods. Andrew Harper members receive a room upgrade at time of booking when available, daily full breakfast in the restaurant, early check-in when available, late checkout when available and a €25 voucher valid at Restaurant Bergs.

The Ritz-Carlton Kapalua (Maui, Hawaii) – A newly renovated resort crowning a scenic 50-acre knoll in the prestigious Kapalua enclave. All 463 guest lodgings feature private lanais. Andrew Harper members receive the best available non-restricted rate, an upgrade at check-in when available, daily buffet breakfast and a $100 resort credit per room per stay.

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Wednesday Escape: Clayoquot Wilderness Resort

Copyright Clayoquot Wilderness Resort

Clayoquot Wilderness Resort, British Columbia.

From the Harper Collection:

“Idyllic wilderness retreat located half an hour by boat from Tofino at the mouth of the Bedwell River. The grounds contain a cluster of log cabin-style buildings, plus guest accommodations in 11 luxurious tents. These are connected by cedar boardwalks and come with thick rugs, antique furniture, Adirondack-style beds with down duvets, electric lighting and propane “woodstoves.” Each tent has a dedicated dressing room/shower in an adjacent central bathhouse. The cookhouse is a handsome post-and-beam space with high ceilings, a doublesided fieldstone fireplace, picture windows, an open kitchen and a wraparound deck. Chef Timothy May creates memorable “modern natural cuisine,” and his five-course dinners include dishes such as truffle-marinated spaghetti squash salad with tiger prawns, and lightly seared albacore with a duck confit. Activities include hiking, kayaking, horseback riding, whale-watching, bearviewing and fishing for steelhead, salmon and cutthroat trout.”

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Andrew Harper’s Twenty Best Views in the World

The Temples of Bagan, Burma

A great view can happen at any place and at any moment: a sunset over an empty field, an unexpected panorama from the top of an office building, the morning sun on a crowded street. There are some classic views, however, that are certainly worth a trip. We’ve been lucky to behold a number of spectacular sights, but the following ones we’ll remember for a very long time.

1. The Grand Canyon from the South Rim

People come from all over the world to take in this vista, which at sunset resembles an impressionistic painting brought to life. Hopi Point, on the West Rim Drive, extends far out into the canyon and is an excellent vantage point among many. Try to visit during the shoulder seasons of April-May and September-October, when the weather is milder and the park is less crowded.

2. Hong Kong Island from Kowloon

Hong Kong Island is clustered with dizzying neon-lit skyscrapers, and the view from the Kowloon Peninsula across Victoria Harbour is straight out of a science-fiction film. This dense urban scene is especially impressive every evening at 8 pm, when it promptly erupts into a laser light show!

3. Phang Nga Bay, Thailand

This remarkable bay between the island of Phuket and the Thai mainland is dotted with hundreds of tall limestone formations that rise hundreds of feet from the sea. Ten thousand years ago, you could walk among these towers; now only their tops are visible, like the skyline of a sunken city.

4. Manhattan from the top of Rockefeller Plaza

The Empire State Building has some very serious competition when it comes to sweeping views of Manhattan. We now prefer the relatively new “Top of the Rock” Observation Deck in Rockefeller Center, mostly for its incredible panorama of Central Park to the north. Look hard and you can spot Yankee Stadium in the Bronx.

5. Istanbul skyline from the Bosphorus strait, Turkey

The Bosphorus strait, which runs squarely through the middle of Istanbul, famously divides Europe and Asia. Both sides of the city slope down to the water like an urban valley. The view from Galata Bridge includes several of the city’s incredible mosques, whose graceful domes and towering minarets are the stuff of fairytales.

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A Travel Office Report from Tanzania

Lions in the Ngorongoro Crater

Andrew Harper Travel Consultant Laura Triebe recently returned from a memorable two-week journey through Tanzania, which she hails as “the best place to see wildlife” in Africa. Superlatives such as “amazing” and “absolutely beautiful” liberally peppered her description of the country.

Laura cited her stay at Singita Sasakwa, one of the three Singita lodges in the private Grumeti Reserve, as one of her favorite experiences. Originally built as a private home, this “mind-blowing” hilltop lodge features a huge wooden arch framing an “unbelievably beautiful” view of the valley. It was “like looking at a postcard.” Laura also experienced the nearby 1920s-style Singita Sabora Tented Camp, which “did not feel like roughing it.” Air conditioning, mahogany furniture and clawfoot tubs ensured a most civilized respite in between game drives.

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The Wines of Languedoc-Roussillon, France

Copyright P. Palau

With more than 700,000 acres under cultivation, the Languedoc-Roussillon produces as much wine — if not more — than the state of California. The Greeks first planted grapes here in the fifth century B.C., and for centuries, the wines of Languedoc-Roussillon were highly regarded. This changed drastically and grievously in the 19th century, however, with bulk production techniques inflicted by the Industrial Revolution. A century later, the winemakers in the Languedoc-Roussillon began paying more attention to quality over quantity. The result has been a crop of new vintners who are creating wines that are complex, pleasing and relatively well-priced.

The region boasts a startling variety of grapes. There are, of course, the inevitable Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as the better-known Rhône varietals such as Mourvèdre, Syrah, Grenache and Viognier. These wines are generally considered to be good values, and more than ever are being well-received by the American market. Kermit Lynch, a wine importer based in Berkeley, Calif., knows the area particularly well. Any wine you find bearing his name is worth knowing!

We highly recommend his book, Adventures on the Wine Route, which tells of his pioneering efforts to bring high-quality French wine to the United States. It is a delightful and insightful read, and we’ve also taken professional encouragement from his Inspiring Thirst: Vintage Selections From the Kermit Lynch Wine Brochure, a collection of excerpts from his lively and engaging newsletter. And naturally, he also has a blog.

Here are some of our favorite winemakers of the Languedoc-Roussillon:

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